7 Best Rocket League Controller Settings to Rank Up Faster (2026 Guide)

Are you stuck in Platinum. Do you watch pro players and wonder how they move their cars with such impossible speed and precision. The secret isn’t just thousands of hours of practice—it’s also about having the best Rocket League controller settings optimized for high-level mechanics. Your default settings are actively holding you back, creating a skill ceiling you might not even know is there.

It’s time to break through it.

This guide is your ticket to unlocking your true potential. We’re going to break down every crucial setting, from camera and controls to the nitty-gritty details of deadzones and sensitivity. By the end, you’ll have a top Rocket League controller setup that feels responsive, intuitive, and ready to help you hit that next rank. Let’s get you flying!

What You’ll Learn

• Essential First Changes: The two settings every single player, from Bronze to SSL, must change immediately for better consistency and focus.
• Pro-Level Camera Setup: We’ll give you the exact camera settings used by top professionals to maximize field awareness without sacrificing car control.
• Optimal Control Bindings: Learn why the default control scheme limits your mechanical ability and how to remap your buttons for aerials, powerslides, and boost management.
• Demystifying Deadzones: Understand what Controller and Dodge Deadzones do and how to fine-tune them to prevent accidental backflips and make your car feel incredibly responsive.
• Sensitivity Secrets: Find the sweet spot for Steering and Aerial Sensitivity that allows for quick, sharp movements without feeling uncontrollable.

1. The Two Settings You MUST Change Immediately

Before we dive into the complex stuff, let’s get two of the biggest roadblocks out of the way. These are non-negotiable changes that will instantly improve your gameplay. If you do nothing else from this guide, do this!

Turn Off Camera Shake

Camera Shake is a setting that causes your screen to vibrate on impacts, demolitions, and supersonic speeds. While it might add a bit of cinematic flair, it’s a massive detriment to competitive play. It introduces visual noise that makes it harder to track the ball, read plays, and maintain precise control during critical moments.

Imagine trying to hit a tiny target while the world is shaking around you—that’s what Camera Shake does to your brain. Every single professional player turns this off. Go to Options > Camera > Camera Shake and uncheck the box. Your consistency will thank you for it.

Disable Controller Vibration

Similar to Camera Shake, Controller Vibration is another feature designed for immersion that hinders performance. It provides physical feedback when you hit the ball, get bumped, or use boost. However, this feedback is a distraction. It can slightly jolt your hands, affecting the micro-adjustments needed for dribbling, aerials, and shooting.

High-level Rocket League is about muscle memory and focus. By turning off vibration, you remove an unnecessary sensory input, allowing you to concentrate purely on the visual and audio cues of the game. Speaking of audio, sharpening your focus on in-game sounds—like an opponent boosting behind you—is a huge advantage. Using quality headsets from a brand like BASN Audio can make those subtle cues crystal clear, giving you an edge that vibration only masks.

2. The Pro-Approved Camera Configuration

Your camera settings are arguably the most important part of your setup. They determine how much of the field you can see, how you perceive your car’s position relative to the ball, and how the camera behaves when you’re moving at high speeds. While personal preference plays a role, the pro community has largely settled on a narrow range of settings that provide the best balance of awareness and control.

Here is a fantastic starting point based on an average of professional player settings. We’ll break down what each one does below.

Setting	Recommended Value	Why It Works
Field of View (FOV)	110	Maximizes your peripheral vision, allowing you to see more of the field and track opponents more easily.
Distance	260 – 280	Places the camera far enough back to see the space around your car, but close enough to maintain precision for dribbles and flicks.
Height	90 – 110	A lower height gives you a better angle for controlling the ball on the ground and in the air.
Angle	-3.0 to -5.0	A slight downward angle helps you see over the ball and judge its trajectory more effectively.
Stiffness	0.40 – 0.70	Controls how much the camera “stiffens” as you gain speed. A lower value keeps the camera smoother.
Swivel Speed	4.0 – 6.0	Determines how quickly you can look around with the right stick. Higher is generally better for quick checks.
Transition Speed	1.0 – 1.2	Affects how quickly the camera switches between Ball Cam and Car Cam. A faster transition is more responsive.

Why These Camera Settings Work

A maxed-out FOV of 110 is non-negotiable. It’s like switching from a tunnel-vision view to a panoramic one. You’ll spot teammates for passes and opponents making challenges far earlier. The Distance, Height, and Angle settings work together to create the perfect vantage point.

You want to see enough of the field to make strategic decisions but keep your car prominent enough to feel connected to your every move.

Stiffness is a key setting that many players misunderstand. A lower stiffness (e.g., 0.45) means the camera will stay more loosely tied to your car’s position as you speed up, creating a smoother feel. A higher stiffness (e.g., 1.0) makes the camera feel rigidly locked behind your car. Most pros prefer a lower value to keep their view consistent.

Experiment within this range to find what feels best for you.

Pro Tip: Once you find camera settings you like, stick with them! Constantly changing your camera settings is like trying to learn guitar on a different instrument every week. Your brain needs time to build muscle memory based on these specific visual cues. Give any new setup at least a week of consistent play before making further adjustments.

3. Optimal Controller Bindings for Mechanical Freedom

This is where we separate the aspiring champions from the casual players. The default controller layout in Rocket League is fundamentally flawed for high-level play. Why? Because it requires you to use the same thumb for jumping, boosting, and air rolling/powersliding.

Think about it: to fast aerial, you need to jump, tilt back, and boost. On default settings, you have to move your thumb from X/A (Jump) to B/Circle (Boost) in a split second. To boost and powerslide at the same time. Impossible without playing “claw,” which can be uncomfortable.

To fix this, we need to remap our controls.

The Most Common Pro Controller Setup

The goal is to be able to jump, boost, and air roll all at the same time. The most popular solution among pros is to move Boost and/or Air Roll to the shoulder buttons.

Here’s a highly recommended layout:

• Powerslide / Air Roll: L1 / LB
• Boost: R1 / RB
• Jump: X / A (PlayStation / Xbox)
• Ball Cam: Triangle / Y
• Air Roll Left: Square / X
• Air Roll Right: Circle / B (Optional, many pros leave this unbound)
• Scoreboard: L1 / LB (shared with Air Roll, just hold it)

Why This New Layout is Superior

By moving Powerslide/Air Roll to L1/LB, you can now hold it down to land perfectly from an aerial while still having your thumb free to jump or manage boost. You can powerslide into a shot without ever letting go of the throttle. This is a massive improvement in fluidity.

Moving Boost to R1/RB is the next big step. Now your right index finger handles boost, while your right thumb is dedicated to jumping (X/A) and directional air roll (Square/X). This configuration allows you to perform complex actions simultaneously:

• Fast Aerials: You can now jump and boost at the exact same time, getting you to the ball faster.
• Air Roll Shots: You can boost towards the ball, jump, and then hold L1/LB to air roll for a powerful, accurate shot, all without your fingers ever getting tangled.
• Dribbling & Flicks: Your thumb is free to make precise jumps for flicks while your index finger manages boost control.

Making this change will feel awkward at first. You will mess up, whiff easy shots, and feel like you’re learning the game all over again for a few days. Push through it. The long-term payoff in mechanical skill and control is absolutely worth the short-term struggle.

4. Fine-Tuning Sensitivity for Razor-Sharp Control

Sensitivity settings determine how your analog stick movements translate to your car’s movement on the ground and in the air. Finding the right balance is key. Too low, and your car will feel sluggish and unresponsive. Too high, and you’ll struggle with consistency and over-correct constantly.

Steering and Aerial Sensitivity

These two settings control how sensitive your left stick is for turning on the ground (Steering) and in the air (Aerial). For years, the common wisdom was to keep them at 1.0. However, the meta has shifted, and almost all pros now use higher sensitivities to allow for faster and more precise adjustments.

• Recommended Range: 1.20 – 2.00
• Pro Sweet Spot: 1.30 – 1.60

Most players find that keeping both values the same creates the most consistent feel between ground and air play. A sensitivity of 1.40 is a fantastic starting point. It will make your car feel much more responsive, allowing you to make quicker cuts for dribbles and faster adjustments during aerials. If it feels too twitchy, lower it by 0.10.

If it feels slow, raise it. Spend time in free play to get a feel for how your car reacts.

5. Demystifying Deadzones: The Key to Responsiveness

Deadzones are perhaps the least understood but most impactful settings for how your car feels. They control how far you have to move your analog stick from the center before the game registers an input.

Controller Deadzone

This setting affects your left analog stick for steering and aerial movement. A lower deadzone means your car will react to even the slightest touch of the stick. A higher deadzone requires you to push the stick further before anything happens.

• Recommended Value: 0.05 – 0.10

Setting this to 0.05 will make your car feel incredibly responsive and connected to your inputs. However, there’s a catch: if your controller has any “stick drift” (where the analog stick sends an input even when you’re not touching it), a low deadzone will cause your car to turn on its own. If you experience stick drift, you’ll need to increase this value until the drift stops. For a healthy controller, 0.05 is the goal.

Dodge Deadzone

This setting is crucial for preventing one of the most frustrating mistakes in Rocket League: the accidental backflip. The Dodge Deadzone determines how far you have to push the analog stick to trigger a dodge (or flip) instead of a double jump.

• Recommended Value: 0.50 – 0.80

When you go for a fast aerial, you need to pull your stick back to lift your car’s nose and then quickly jump again. If your Dodge Deadzone is too low, the game might register that stick movement as the direction for a dodge, causing you to backflip instead of rising into the air. A higher value, like 0.70, creates a larger “safe zone” where you can double jump without accidentally flipping. This is one of the most impactful Rocket League controller configuration tips for aspiring aerial masters.

6. A Look at Pro Player Setups

While copying a pro’s settings won’t instantly make you as good as them, it’s an excellent way to find a balanced and proven starting point. Pros have spent thousands of hours refining their setups for maximum performance. Let’s look at a couple of examples from the world’s best.

Zen (Team Vitality)

Considered by many to be the best player in the world, Zen’s settings are a masterclass in balance.

• Camera: FOV 110, Distance 270, Height 100, Angle -4.0, Stiffness 0.45
• Controls: L1/LB for Air Roll & Powerslide, R1/RB for Boost, Square/X for Air Roll Left
• Sensitivity: 1.40 Steering / 1.40 Aerial
• Deadzones: 0.05 Controller / 0.50 Dodge

His setup is very standard for the modern pro, emphasizing responsiveness (low controller deadzone, high sensitivity) while maintaining control and preventing mistakes (low dodge deadzone).

GarrettG (NRG)

A long-time veteran and world champion, GarrettG’s settings are a testament to consistency.

• Camera: FOV 110, Distance 270, Height 100, Angle -5.0, Stiffness 0.50
• Controls: L1/LB for Powerslide, R1/RB for Boost, Air Roll on Square/X
• Sensitivity: 1.30 Steering / 1.30 Aerial
• Deadzones: 0.07 Controller / 0.70 Dodge

Notice the similarities? Both use high FOV, similar camera distances, and have remapped their boost and air roll. The small differences in sensitivity and deadzone come down to personal feel. This is why it’s so important to use these pro setups as a baseline and then tweak them slightly to match your own playstyle.

7. Creating the Perfect Gaming Environment

Your in-game settings are only half the battle. Your physical setup plays a huge role in your ability to perform consistently. Comfort, posture, and hardware performance can all impact your reaction time and precision.

Ergonomics for Peak Performance

Long gaming sessions can lead to fatigue and discomfort, which directly affects your controller handling. Investing in an ergonomic gaming chair is crucial for maintaining good posture and staying focused. A high-quality chair from a brand like Secretlab provides the support needed to prevent back pain and keep you comfortable, allowing your muscle memory to take over without distraction.

Hardware That Keeps Up

Rocket League is a game of milliseconds. Your settings can be perfect, but if your PC can’t deliver a high, stable frame rate, your inputs will feel delayed. A powerful gaming PC is essential for competitive play, ensuring the game feels as responsive as possible. For those looking for a pre-built system that can easily handle Rocket League at high FPS, checking out options from ORIGIN PC is a great place to start.

This responsiveness is also impacted by your display. Many players use a dedicated, low-latency monitor to minimize input lag. For gamers on the go or those with limited space, The Portable Monitor can be an excellent solution, offering a high-quality display that you can set up anywhere.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

What are the best controller settings for Rocket League?

The best settings are subjective but generally follow pro standards: FOV at 110, Camera Shake off, Vibration off, Air Roll/Powerslide on L1/LB, Boost on R1/RB, Steering/Aerial Sensitivity between 1.3-1.6, Controller Deadzone at 0.05, and Dodge Deadzone around 0.60-0.80. This setup maximizes awareness and mechanical freedom.

What settings does Zen use?

As of late 2026, Zen uses a fairly standard pro setup: 110 FOV, 270 Distance, 100 Height, -4.0 Angle, 0.45 Stiffness. His controller settings include 1.40 sensitivity for both steering and aerial, a 0.05 controller deadzone, and a 0.50 dodge deadzone. He uses L1/LB for Air Roll and Powerslide.

What sensitivity do most pros use?

Most professional Rocket League players use a steering and aerial sensitivity between 1.30 and 2.00. The most common range, or the “sweet spot” for many, tends to be between 1.30 and 1.60. This provides a significant boost in responsiveness over the default 1.0 without becoming too difficult to control.

What’s the best controller for Rocket League?

The most popular controllers are the standard PlayStation 5 DualSense and the Xbox Elite Series 2. The DualSense is favored for its symmetrical stick layout and comfortable feel, while the Xbox Elite is praised for its durability and customizable paddles on the back, which can be used for extra keybinds. Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference.

Why do pros bind Air Roll to L1/LB?

Pros bind Air Roll and Powerslide to L1/LB to free up their right thumb. On the default layout, your thumb has to manage jumping, boosting, and air rolling. By moving Air Roll to a shoulder button, a player can boost, jump, and air roll all at the same time, which is essential for advanced mechanics like air roll shots and ceiling shots.

What is the #1 rule of Rocket League?

While there are many unwritten rules, the most famous is “Rule 1.” This occurs when two players drive into each other head-on and get stuck. According to community tradition, both players must hold the throttle and remain locked together until a goal is scored or another player breaks them apart. Breaking Rule 1 is considered bad luck!

Final Thoughts

Finding the best Rocket League controller settings is a journey, not a destination. The values and layouts in this guide represent the pinnacle of optimization discovered by the best players in the world. They are your new, powerful starting point. Implement these changes, be patient during the adjustment period, and spend time in free play getting used to the new feel.

Your car will feel faster, your movements will be more precise, and the mechanical skill ceiling you once felt will begin to disappear. You now have the optimal controller settings for Rocket League; the rest is up to practice. Now go out there and start climbing those ranks!

Pro-Level Precision: The Best Rocket League Controller Settings for 2026

Are you tired of feeling stuck in your rank, watching opponents fly past you with effortless control? The secret to breaking through that plateau might not be endless hours of grinding (though that helps!), but something much more fundamental: your controller settings. Finding the best rocket league controller settings for your playstyle is one of the most impactful changes you can make to improve your mechanics, speed, and consistency on the field. It’s time to stop fighting your controller and make it an extension of your will!

This guide is your all-in-one resource for building the perfect setup from the ground up. We’re going to break down why the default settings are holding you back, walk you through the button layouts used by the pros, and dive deep into the numbers behind sensitivity and deadzones. Get ready to transform your game, because the optimal controller settings for Rocket League are within your reach, and we’re going to find them together!

What to Know

• Change Your Keybinds: The single most important change is moving Boost to R1/RB and Air Roll/Powerslide to L1/LB. This frees up your thumb to jump, boost, and aim simultaneously, which is essential for advanced mechanics like fast aerials.
• Lower Your Controller Deadzone: A lower deadzone (around 0.05 to 0.10) makes your car feel incredibly responsive. You’ll need to test for stick drift, but the increased sensitivity is a massive advantage.
• Increase Your Dodge Deadzone: To prevent accidental backflips when going for a fast aerial, increase your dodge deadzone to around 0.60 to 0.80. This requires a more deliberate stick movement to trigger a flip.
• Find Your Sensitivity Sweet Spot: Most professional players use a Steering and Aerial Sensitivity between 1.30 and 2.00. Start around 1.40 and adjust in small increments to find what feels best for you.
• There Is No ‘Perfect’ Setting: While this guide provides a pro-level foundation, the absolute best settings are personal. Use these recommendations as a starting point and fine-tune them in free play until they feel perfect for you.

Why Your Controller Settings Are Your Secret Weapon in Rocket League

In a game as fast-paced and mechanically demanding as Rocket League, every millisecond and every micro-adjustment counts. Your controller settings are the bridge between your brain’s intentions and your car’s actions on the screen. If that bridge is rickety, your gameplay will suffer. Poor settings can introduce input lag, cause accidental inputs, and limit your mechanical ceiling by making complex actions physically awkward to perform.

Think about it in terms of muscle memory. The goal is to make your car’s movements so intuitive that you don’t have to think about which buttons to press. You just do. A logical, comfortable, and efficient controller setup allows you to build that muscle memory far more effectively.

When you’re not fumbling with your fingers to boost and jump at the same time, you can focus on the higher-level strategy of the game: positioning, rotation, and reading your opponents.

Optimizing your settings is like tuning a race car. A stock car might be fine for a casual drive, but to compete at the highest levels, you need to tweak the suspension, adjust the engine, and customize every component for peak performance. Your controller is no different. By following these Rocket League controller configuration tips, you’re not just changing a few numbers in a menu; you’re unlocking a higher potential for speed, precision, and control.

A Quick Look at Rocket League’s Default Settings (And Why They Need Changing)

When you first launch Rocket League, the game assigns you a default controller layout. For a brand new player, it seems logical enough. You have Jump on A (Xbox) or X (PlayStation), and Boost on B or Circle. The problem becomes painfully obvious the moment you try to do two things at once, which in Rocket League, is pretty much all the time.

With the default settings, your right thumb is responsible for four critical actions: Jump, Boost, Ball Cam, and looking around with the right stick. Now, try to jump (A/X) and boost (B/O) at the exact same time to perform a fast aerial. You can’t do it with a standard grip. Your thumb can only be in one place at once.

This forces players into an awkward “claw” grip, where you use your index finger to press the face buttons, which can be uncomfortable and unsustainable for long play sessions.

This fundamental design flaw is the single biggest reason why changing your settings is not just recommended—it’s practically mandatory for competitive play. The default layout actively prevents you from performing essential mechanics efficiently. Before you can even think about sensitivities and deadzones, you have to fix the core button layout to create a top Rocket League controller setup that enables, rather than hinders, your growth as a player.

The Pro-Approved Foundation: Best Controller Configurations for Competitive Play

So, if the default settings are a no-go, where do you start? The answer is to look at what the pros do. Over the years, the competitive community has collectively settled on a general layout that solves the default settings’ core problems. This configuration is designed for maximum efficiency, allowing you to access every crucial mechanic without ever taking your thumbs off the sticks.

This section will break down the most essential changes that form the foundation of nearly every high-level player’s setup. Adopting this layout will feel strange at first—it might even feel like you’re learning the game all over again. But stick with it for a few days, and you’ll quickly realize how much more control and speed you have at your fingertips.

The Essential Rebinds: Boost and Air Roll/Powerslide

The absolute heart of any competitive controller setup is remapping Boost and Air Roll. This is the change that solves the thumb problem we discussed earlier. Here’s the breakdown:

• Move Boost to R1 (RB on Xbox): This is the big one. By putting boost on your right bumper, you can now press it with your index finger. This completely frees up your right thumb to focus on jumping, ball cam, and making fine adjustments on the right stick. You can now boost and jump simultaneously with zero issues, making fast aerials intuitive and easy.

• Move Air Roll & Powerslide to L1 (LB on Xbox): Powersliding is crucial for maintaining momentum and making sharp turns on the ground. Air roll is essential for controlling your car in the air. Since you’re never doing both at the exact same time, binding them to the same button (L1/LB) is incredibly efficient. Your left index finger will now control your recoveries on the ground and your adjustments in the air.

These two changes alone will radically transform your gameplay. It will take time to overwrite your old muscle memory, but the payoff is enormous. You are physically enabling yourself to play faster and more mechanically.

Directional Air Roll: The Next Step to Mechanical Mastery

Once you’re comfortable with the basic rebinds, you can explore directional air roll. In the settings, you can bind “Air Roll Left” and “Air Roll Right” to separate buttons. This allows you to spin your car on a perfect axis with the press of a single button, rather than using the standard Air Roll button in combination with your left stick.

Why is this useful? Directional air roll is the key to unlocking the highest level of aerial car control. It makes certain advanced mechanics, like tornado spins, stalls, and breezi flicks, much easier to perform consistently. Many pros bind one or both of these to their face buttons, which are now free since Boost has been moved.

A common setup is to bind Air Roll Left to Square (X on Xbox) and Air Roll Right to Circle (B on Xbox). Some players only bind one and stick with the general air roll on L1/LB for minor adjustments. This is purely preference, but experimenting with directional air roll is a great way to push your mechanics even further.

A Sample Pro-Level Button Layout (Your New Starting Point)

To put it all together, here is a fantastic starting template for a competitive button layout. This is a common and highly effective top Rocket League controller setup that you can adopt and then tweak to your personal comfort.

Action	PlayStation Controller	Xbox Controller
Steer	Left Stick	Left Stick
Gas	R2	RT
Brake/Reverse	L2	LT
Jump	X	A
Boost	R1	RB
Powerslide / Air Roll	L1	LB
Ball Cam	Triangle	Y
Air Roll Left	Square	X
Air Roll Right	Circle	B
Scoreboard	Select/Touchpad	View

Dialing It In: Mastering Sensitivity and Deadzone Settings

With your button layout sorted, it’s time to dive into the numbers. Sensitivity and deadzone settings are where you can truly personalize your controls to match your reaction time and playstyle. These settings determine how your car responds to your stick movements. Finding the right balance is a delicate process of trial and error, but getting it right will make your car feel incredibly responsive and precise.

Steering and Aerial Sensitivity: Finding Your Perfect Speed

Steering Sensitivity and Aerial Sensitivity control how much your car turns for a given movement of your left stick, both on the ground and in the air. Higher values mean your car reacts faster and turns more sharply, while lower values offer smoother, more controlled movements.

Most professional players keep these two values identical to maintain a consistent feel between ground and air play. The common range for pros is between 1.30 and 2.00. A value over 1.60 is generally considered high sensitivity.

• Where to Start: A great starting point is 1.40 for both Steering and Aerial Sensitivity. This is a nice middle ground that offers a good boost in responsiveness without feeling uncontrollable.
• How to Adjust: Play in free play with this setting. If your car feels sluggish and you find yourself unable to make quick turns, increase the sensitivity by 0.05. If your car feels twitchy and you’re constantly over-correcting your movements, decrease it by 0.05. Repeat this process until it feels just right.

Controller Deadzone: Eliminating Input Lag and Stick Drift

The Controller Deadzone is arguably the most critical sensitivity setting. It defines a small “dead zone” in the center of your analog stick where no input is registered. The purpose is to prevent “stick drift”—where a worn-out controller sends slight inputs even when you’re not touching the stick.

The goal is to set this value as low as possible without experiencing stick drift. A lower deadzone means your car reacts the instant you move the stick, making your inputs feel incredibly snappy and responsive. Most pros use a deadzone between 0.05 and 0.10.

To find your perfect deadzone:

1. Go into the settings and set your Controller Deadzone to 0.00. 2. Go into free play and don’t touch your controller.

Watch your car’s wheels. 3. If the wheels are turning on their own, you have stick drift. Go back to the settings and increase the deadzone by 0.01.

1. Repeat this process until your car’s wheels stay perfectly still when you aren’t touching the stick. That value is your ideal deadzone.

Dodge Deadzone: Preventing Accidental Backflips

The Dodge Deadzone determines how far you need to move your stick to trigger a dodge (a flip) instead of a second jump. This setting is crucial for preventing the dreaded accidental backflip when you’re trying to fast aerial.

When you jump and tilt your stick back to lift your car’s nose for an aerial, a low dodge deadzone can cause the game to register a backflip on your second jump. To avoid this, most players use a much higher Dodge Deadzone than their Controller Deadzone. A common range is between 0.60 and 0.80.

Setting this value higher means you have to make a much more deliberate and forceful movement with your stick to trigger a flip. This gives you a larger window to make small adjustments for an aerial without accidentally flipping. Start at 0.70 and see how it feels. If you’re still backflipping, raise it.

If you feel like you’re struggling to get your flips to come out, lower it slightly.

Pro Tip: When you first change your deadzones and sensitivities, your control will feel off. Don’t give up after ten minutes! Commit to playing with the new settings for at least a few days to allow your muscle memory to adapt. The long-term benefit in responsiveness is well worth the short-term adjustment period.

Tailoring Your Setup: Control Schemes for Different Playstyles

While the pro setup is a fantastic baseline, the truly optimal controller settings for Rocket League are the ones that complement your unique playstyle. Not everyone plays the same way, so your settings shouldn’t be one-size-fits-all. Once you’re comfortable with the foundational changes, you can start making small tweaks to support your strengths.

For example, if you’re a very defensive, third-man back type of player, your game might revolve around precise clears, long shots, and consistent saves. In this case, you might prefer slightly lower sensitivities (e.g., 1.25-1.35). This can make your movements feel a bit smoother and more deliberate, helping you line up those crucial touches with greater accuracy. You might not need to rely on complex mechanics, so a setup that prioritizes consistency over raw speed could be ideal.

On the other hand, if you’re an aggressive, mechanical player who loves air dribbles, flip resets, and ceiling shots, you might benefit from higher sensitivities (e.g., 1.60-2.00). This allows your car to react faster, enabling quicker adjustments in the air and more rapid changes of direction. Pairing this with dedicated directional air roll binds gives you the tools you need for maximum creativity and outplay potential. The trade-off is that it requires more precise stick control, but for a mechanical player, that’s a challenge worth embracing.

Making the Game Accessible: Important Controller Options

Beyond competitive optimization, Rocket League’s settings menu includes several options that can improve accessibility and comfort for all players. These settings can help tailor the experience to your personal preferences and physical needs, ensuring everyone can enjoy the game comfortably.

One of the most debated settings is Controller Vibration. The vast majority of competitive players turn this feature Off. The reasoning is that the rumbling can be a minor physical distraction, potentially interfering with the fine muscle control needed for precise movements. However, this is not a hard rule.

For some players, the haptic feedback can be a useful tool, providing a tangible confirmation for actions like hitting the ball, boosting, or demolishing an opponent. If you find the feedback helpful and it doesn’t bother you, there’s no harm in leaving it on. It’s all about what helps you focus.

Furthermore, the ability to remap every single button is a powerful accessibility feature in itself. Players with disabilities or specific physical limitations can create a completely custom layout that works for them. The principles of efficiency (like separating boost and jump) still apply, but they can be adapted to any configuration that is comfortable and practical for the individual player. Paired with in-game visual aids like colorblind mode, these options help make Rocket League a more inclusive game.

The Ultimate Test Drive: How to Fine-Tune Your New Settings

Okay, you’ve implemented the new button layout and dialed in your starting sensitivities. Now comes the most important part: testing and fine-tuning. This is where you turn theory into practice and truly make the settings your own. This process requires patience, so don’t get discouraged if things feel weird at first.

Stick with it.

1. Step 1: Get Comfortable in Free Play
   Before jumping into a match, spend at least 15-20 minutes in free play. Just drive around the field. Hit the ball, practice powersliding, and fly around the arena. The goal here isn’t to hit amazing shots; it’s simply to let your brain and hands get used to the new button locations and the new feel of the car’s responsiveness.

2. Step 2: Pressure Test with Training Packs
   Next, load up some custom training packs. Choose packs that focus on different skills to see how your settings hold up under various conditions. Good options include aerial shot packs, ground shot consistency packs, and save packs. This will force you to use your new binds and sensitivities in specific, repeatable scenarios, which is the fastest way to build new muscle memory.

3. Step 3: Take It Live in Casual Matches
   Once you’re feeling more confident, it’s time to play against real people. Queue up for some casual matches to test your settings in a dynamic, unpredictable environment. This is the ultimate test. Pay attention to any recurring mistakes. Are you accidentally backflipping? Your dodge deadzone might be too low. Are you consistently missing the ball by over-correcting? Your sensitivity might be too high.

4. Step 4: Adjust One Thing at a Time
   This is the golden rule of fine-tuning. If you decide to make a change, only adjust one setting at a time. For example, if your aerials feel slow, increase your aerial sensitivity by 0.05 and nothing else. Then, go back to free play and casual matches to test that single change thoroughly. If you change multiple settings at once, you’ll never know which one was responsible for the new feel, making the process confusing and inefficient.

To get the most out of your practice sessions, a stable gaming environment is key. You need consistent performance to accurately judge your settings. A powerful gaming PC, like one from ORIGIN PC, ensures you get high, stable frame rates, so lag or stutter won’t interfere with your inputs. Similarly, being comfortable is crucial for focus.

A supportive gaming chair from a brand like Secretlab helps you maintain good posture and stay locked in during long tuning sessions. Finally, don’t underestimate audio. Quality headphones from BASN Audio can help you hear opponent boosts and jumps, giving you critical information that complements your newfound mechanical control.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

What are the best Rocket League controller settings?

While the absolute ‘best’ settings are subjective, a strong, pro-recommended starting point is: Boost on R1/RB, Air Roll/Powerslide on L1/LB, Steering/Aerial Sensitivity around 1.40, a Controller Deadzone of 0.05-0.10 (as low as possible without drift), and a Dodge Deadzone of 0.70-0.80. This setup provides a massive advantage over the default settings by allowing you to boost, jump, and air roll simultaneously with ease.

What settings does Zen use?

As of early 2026, RLCS champion Zen is known for his unique settings. He uses a high sensitivity, often around 1.80-2.00 for both steering and aerial. His deadzone is very low, around 0.05. For controls, he uses a fairly standard pro layout with Boost on R1 and Powerslide/Air Roll on L1, but notably binds Air Roll Right to Square and does not use a dedicated Air Roll Left bind.

It’s important to remember that copying a pro’s settings directly may not work for you; use them as inspiration, not as a strict rule.

What sensitivity do pros use in Rocket League?

Most professional Rocket League players use a Steering and Aerial Sensitivity that falls somewhere between 1.30 and 2.00. It’s rare to see a pro go below 1.20 or above 2.50. Players who rely on quick, mechanical plays tend to favor higher sensitivities, while players who prioritize precision and consistency might opt for a slightly lower value. A good starting point for most players is to set both to 1.40 and adjust from there.

What is the best way to air roll?

There are two methods: standard Air Roll and Directional Air Roll (Left or Right). The best approach is to learn how to use both. The standard Air Roll (bound to L1/LB in our recommended setup) is perfect for making small, precise adjustments in the air to line up a shot. Directional Air Roll (often bound to Square/X or Circle/B) is better for continuous, controlled spinning, which is essential for advanced mechanics like air dribbles and flip resets.

Many pros use both, relying on the standard button for most situations and a dedicated directional button for complex plays.

What Deadzone do pros use?

Pros almost universally use a very low Controller Deadzone, typically between 0.05 and 0.10. This makes the game feel extremely responsive. For the Dodge Deadzone, pros use a much higher value, usually between 0.60 and 0.80. This creates a larger buffer zone on the stick, preventing accidental flips when trying to perform fast aerials, which is a common issue for players using a lower dodge deadzone.

Do RL Pros play on controller?

Yes, the overwhelming majority of Rocket League pros play on a controller. While a few exceptions exist, the controller is the preferred input method for high-level play. The analog sticks on a controller allow for 360-degree movement and fine-tuned control over steering and aerial adjustments, which is much more difficult to replicate on a keyboard’s binary (on/off) inputs. The PlayStation DualSense and DualShock 4 are among the most popular choices.

Final Thoughts

Finding your perfect controller settings in Rocket League is a journey, not a destination. The configurations and numbers we’ve discussed are the best starting point you can have, built on years of optimization by the competitive community. By adopting the pro-level button layout and carefully tuning your sensitivities and deadzones, you are giving yourself the best possible foundation for mechanical improvement.

Don’t be afraid to experiment. What works for Zen might not work for you. The goal is to find a setup that feels intuitive, responsive, and comfortable. Use free play, trust your gut, and be patient with the adjustment process.

Once your muscle memory kicks in and your new settings feel like second nature, you’ll wonder how you ever played any other way.

Now, go jump into a training session and start tinkering. Your future rank will thank you for it!

Best Rocket League Controller Settings: A Pro’s Guide to Ranking Up

Ever feel like your car is fighting you. You see the perfect aerial play, you jump, you boost. and your car spins out of control like a confused helicopter. Or maybe you whiff an easy save because your turn felt like it was stuck in mud.

It’s one of the most frustrating feelings in Rocket League, and it’s a wall that every player hits. But what if I told you the solution isn’t just about ‘getting good’—it’s about unlocking your car’s true potential. Finding the best rocket league controller settings for your playstyle is the single most impactful change you can make to climb the ranks, and it’s time to transform your game from clunky to clean.

This isn’t just about copying a pro player’s setup and calling it a day. It’s about understanding why their settings work and how you can build your own perfect configuration from the ground up. We’re going to break down every single slider, every button bind, and every hidden option to give you total control over your car. Get ready to feel faster, more precise, and more confident than ever before.

Let’s build your perfect setup.

Quick Summary

• Button Mapping is Key: The default controls hold you back. Moving Boost to R1/RB and Power Slide/Air Roll to L1/LB is the most critical change for enabling advanced mechanics like boosting while air rolling.
• Sensitivity is Personal: Most pros use a Steering and Aerial Sensitivity between 1.30 and 2.00. Start around 1.40 and adjust in small increments of 0.10 in Free Play to find what feels responsive but controllable.
• Lower Your Deadzone: A lower Controller Deadzone (around 0.05 to 0.10) makes your car react faster to small stick movements. Adjust your Dodge Deadzone higher (around 0.60 to 0.80) to prevent accidental backflips.
• Copy Pros as a Starting Point: Don’t just copy a pro’s settings blindly. Use them as a well-tested baseline, then spend time in Free Play and casual matches to tweak them until they feel perfect for you.
• Consistency is Everything: Once you find a setup that feels good, stick with it! Constantly changing your settings will destroy your muscle memory and stall your progress. Give yourself at least a week to adapt to any new configuration.

Why Your Controller Settings Are Your Secret Weapon

In a game decided by split-second reactions and micro-adjustments, your controller settings are the bridge between your brain and your car. Think of it like this: a professional race car driver wouldn’t use the stock steering and pedal setup from a street car. They customize everything—steering sensitivity, brake pressure, gear ratios—to match their driving style and gain a competitive edge. Rocket League is no different.

The default settings are designed to be accessible for brand-new players, but they are fundamentally limiting for anyone trying to climb past Gold. They make it physically impossible to perform multiple actions at once. Can you boost, jump, and air roll at the same time with the default layout. Not without contorting your hand into a painful claw shape.

This is where a custom Rocket League controller config becomes essential.

Optimizing your settings does more than just make the game feel better; it directly unlocks new mechanical possibilities. It allows for faster aerial takeoffs, more precise dribbling control, and quicker recoveries. It’s the foundation upon which all advanced mechanics are built. Before you can learn to ceiling shot or musty flick, you need a setup that allows your fingers to execute the commands instantly and intuitively.

This guide will give you that foundation.

The Foundation: Best Controller Layouts & Button Mapping

This is, without a doubt, the most important change you will make. Your button layout dictates what you can do simultaneously. The goal is to free up your right thumb from having to do everything (jump, boost, ball cam, powerslide) so you can focus on precise analog stick control. Let’s build the ultimate layout.

The Pro Standard: Moving Boost and Air Roll

The absolute gold standard for any serious player is to move Boost and Air Roll off the face buttons and onto the bumpers. Here’s the most common and effective setup:

• Boost: Move from Circle/B to R1/RB.
• Powerslide / Air Roll: Move from Square/X to L1/LB.

Why is this so powerful. It allows you to use your index fingers for boost and powerslide, freeing your right thumb to focus exclusively on jumping (X/A) and camera control (Triangle/Y). With this setup, you can now boost while simultaneously jumping and aiming your car with the analog stick—the three core components of an aerial play. It feels weird for the first few hours, but the long-term payoff is immense.

You’ll wonder how you ever played any other way.

Customizing Your Rocket League Controller Config for Your Playstyle

Beyond the basics, you can add dedicated Air Roll Left and Air Roll Right bindings for even more control. Many pros bind these to Square/X and Circle/B, respectively. This allows for perfect tornado spins and cleaner aerial maneuvers that are difficult with the standard Air Roll button.

Here is a fantastic starting template for a top Rocket League controller setup:

Action	Recommended Binding (PS/Xbox)
Boost	R1 / RB
Jump	X / A
Powerslide / Air Roll	L1 / LB
Ball Cam	Triangle / Y
Air Roll Left	Square / X
Air Roll Right	Circle / B
Scoreboard	R3 (Right Stick Click)

This layout is the pinnacle of efficiency. It minimizes finger travel and eliminates input conflicts. You have total control in the air and on the ground. Commit to this change, spend a few days in Free Play getting used to it, and your gameplay will elevate dramatically.

Dialing in Precision: Optimal Sensitivity Settings

If button mapping is the skeleton of your setup, sensitivity is the nervous system. These sliders determine how quickly your car reacts to your stick inputs, both on the ground and in the air. Finding the right balance is crucial for feeling both fast and in control.

Steering vs. Aerial Sensitivity: What’s the Difference?

It’s important to understand that these are two separate settings affecting different aspects of your control:

• Steering Sensitivity: This controls how quickly your car turns on the ground. A higher value means you’ll reach your maximum turn radius with a smaller movement of the analog stick. This is vital for sharp cuts, quick 180-degree turns, and effective dribbling.
• Aerial Sensitivity: This controls how quickly your car pitches, yaws, and rolls in the air. A higher value allows for faster aerial adjustments, helping you beat opponents to the ball and make last-second shot corrections.

For years, players kept these values at the default 1.0. However, the modern meta has shifted towards much higher sensitivities, as players realized it gives them a significant speed advantage. Keeping both sliders at the same value is generally recommended for consistency, so your car feels the same on the ground as it does in the air.

Finding Your Sweet Spot (1.30 to 2.00)

So, what numbers should you use? The vast majority of professional players set both their Steering and Aerial Sensitivity somewhere between 1.30 and 2.00. Anything below 1.30 can feel sluggish, while anything above 2.00 can feel overly twitchy and difficult to control.

• Start at 1.40: This is a fantastic middle ground that feels immediately more responsive than the default without being overwhelming.
• Adjust in Small Increments: Go into Free Play and hit the ball around. Does it feel too slow? Bump it up by 0.10. Too fast and uncontrollable? Lower it by 0.10.
• Test, Don’t Tweak Constantly: Find a value that feels good and stick with it for at least a week. Your muscle memory needs time to adapt. Constant tweaking will only hurt your consistency.

Ultimately, sensitivity is pure preference. Some pros, like Justin, have used sensitivities as high as 2.00, while others prefer a more controlled feel around 1.30. Experiment within this range to find what gives you the perfect blend of speed and precision.

Eliminating Stick Drift: Mastering Deadzone Settings

Deadzone is one of the most misunderstood but critical settings. It essentially creates a small “dead zone” around the center of your analog stick where no input is registered. This is crucial for preventing unwanted car movements from a worn-out or highly sensitive controller, but it also impacts how responsive your car feels.

Controller Deadzone: The Key to Accuracy

Your Controller Deadzone determines how far you have to move your analog stick from the center before your car starts turning. A higher deadzone means you need to move the stick more, which can feel unresponsive. A lower deadzone makes your car react to the tiniest movements, offering incredible precision but risking accidental turns if your controller has any stick drift.

The sweet spot for most players is between 0.05 and 0.10. This provides a highly responsive feel without picking up phantom inputs from most controllers.

Pro Tip: To find your perfect deadzone, go into a replay or Free Play and don’t touch your controller. If your car or camera is slowly moving on its own, your deadzone is too low. Increase it by 0.01 until the movement stops. That’s your ideal minimum deadzone!

Dodge Deadzone: Preventing Accidental Flips

This setting is completely different and incredibly important. The Dodge Deadzone determines how far you have to push the analog stick in a direction before a second jump input registers as a dodge (or flip) instead of a double jump. If you’ve ever gone for a fast aerial and accidentally backflipped, your Dodge Deadzone was likely too low.

A higher value here is generally better. Most pros set this between 0.60 and 0.80. This gives you a large window to perform a double jump for a fast aerial without accidentally flipping. It makes your movements more intentional and cuts down on frustrating mechanical errors.

Set it to 0.70 and you’ll immediately notice fewer accidental flips.

To Shake or Not to Shake? The Vibration Feedback Debate

Controller vibration is a feature that divides the community, but the competitive consensus is quite clear. While it can feel immersive to feel the rumble of your engine or the impact of a demolition, it offers very little competitive advantage and can actually be a detriment.

The main argument for vibration is tactile feedback. Some players claim it helps them feel when they’ve landed perfectly or when their boost is active. However, these are things you should be sensing through visual and audio cues anyway. The slight shaking of the controller can introduce tiny inconsistencies into your fine motor control, especially during delicate aerial maneuvers or dribbles.

Furthermore, vibration drains your controller’s battery life significantly faster. For these reasons, the overwhelming majority of professional and high-level players turn vibration off. The consensus is that the potential for distraction and minor input interference outweighs any perceived benefit. Our recommendation.

Disable it. Your hands (and your battery) will thank you.

Pro-Level Performance: A Top Rocket League Controller Setup

Now that we’ve covered the individual components, let’s put it all together into a cohesive, pro-level setup. This is a configuration that synthesizes the most popular and effective settings used at the highest levels of play. It’s designed for maximum mechanical freedom and precision. Remember, this is a starting point—tweak it to fit your personal comfort.

Pro Template Settings:

• Steering Sensitivity: 1.40
• Aerial Sensitivity: 1.40
• Controller Deadzone: 0.05
• Dodge Deadzone: 0.70
• Vibration: Disabled
• Button Binds: Boost on R1/RB, Powerslide/Air Roll on L1/LB

This setup is the perfect launchpad. It’s fast but controllable, precise but forgiving. It incorporates the button bindings that unlock your mechanical ceiling and the deadzone settings that prevent common errors. Of course, a perfect setup is only half the battle.

To truly perform at a competitive level, your hardware needs to keep up. Consistent, high frame rates are non-negotiable. A powerful gaming rig from a builder like ORIGIN PC ensures you’re getting a stable 240+ FPS, making your inputs feel incredibly responsive. Paired with great audio from a headset like those from BASN Audio to hear opponent movements, you create an environment where your settings can truly shine.

Your Personal Lab: How to Test and Fine-Tune Your Settings

Finding the best controller settings for Rocket League is a journey, not a destination. Copying a pro’s setup is a great start, but the final 10% of optimization comes from personal testing and adjustment. Here’s a step-by-step process to create a configuration that feels like an extension of your own hands.

1. Establish Your Baseline: Start with the pro template outlined above. This gives you a solid, well-tested foundation to build upon.
2. Enter the Lab (Free Play): Free Play is your best friend. Spend at least 30 minutes just hitting the ball. Don’t worry about scoring goals or doing anything fancy. Just focus on how the car feels. Is turning sharp? Are aerials responsive? Is it comfortable?
3. Tweak One Thing at a Time: Don’t change your sensitivity, deadzone, and button binds all at once. If your aerials feel a bit slow, increase Aerial Sensitivity by 0.10. If you’re getting stick drift, increase Controller Deadzone by 0.01. Isolate one variable, test it, and see how it feels before changing anything else.
4. Run the Gauntlet: Once it feels good in Free Play, take it into casual matches. The pressure of a real game is the ultimate test. Pay attention to moments where you feel like you lost control. Was it an accidental backflip? Maybe your Dodge Deadzone needs to be higher. Did you get beat to the ball in the air? Maybe your sensitivity could be a touch faster.
5. Be Patient and Commit: This is the most important step. Once you find something that feels 95% right, stop tweaking. You need to give your brain and hands time to build muscle memory. Commit to a setup for at least one to two weeks of consistent play. The initial awkwardness will fade, and true control will begin to set in.

This process takes time, so get comfortable. Long sessions are often needed to truly feel out a new setup. Investing in an ergonomic gaming chair from a brand like Secretlab or TechniSport can make a huge difference in maintaining focus and avoiding discomfort during these crucial tuning sessions.

Does Your Controller Matter? How Hardware Influences Play

While settings are paramount, the physical controller you use does have an impact on performance. Different controllers have unique stick tensions, button feels, and input latency, which can influence how your settings translate to the game.

• PlayStation Controllers (DualShock 4 / DualSense): A favorite among many pros like Zen. The symmetrical analog stick layout is preferred by many for its consistency. The DualShock 4 is particularly lauded for its low input lag and reliable build quality. The DualSense (PS5) is also excellent, though slightly larger.
• Xbox Controllers: Known for their comfortable, ergonomic shape and offset analog sticks. Some players find the offset layout more natural for their thumbs. They are durable and reliable, though some versions have historically had slightly higher input latency than their PlayStation counterparts, a difference that is negligible for 99% of players.
• Pro Controllers (SCUF, Battle Beaver, etc.): These are modified versions of standard controllers that offer features like back paddles, trigger stops, and customizable stick tension. Back paddles are the main draw, as they allow you to map actions like Jump or Boost to the back of the controller, freeing up your face buttons even further. They are a luxury, not a necessity, but can provide a slight competitive edge.

Ultimately, the “best” controller is the one that feels most comfortable in your hands. There are pros at the top of the world using every type of controller imaginable. Don’t feel pressured to buy an expensive pro controller; mastering your settings on a standard PS or Xbox controller will take you further than any fancy hardware ever could.

The Ultimate Showdown: Controller vs. Keyboard and Mouse

The age-old debate: which input method is superior for Rocket League? While a small, dedicated group of players excel on keyboard and mouse (KBM), the overwhelming evidence points to the controller as the optimal choice for this game.

The Case for Keyboard and Mouse:
KBM offers a few distinct advantages. It allows for more directional air roll options, as you can bind separate keys for every possible movement. This makes certain mechanics, like stalls, significantly easier to execute. The digital nature of key presses can also feel more immediate for some actions.

The Case for Controller:
The controller’s biggest advantage is the analog stick. Steering and throttle control in Rocket League are not binary; they require nuanced, 360-degree input. An analog stick provides a level of precision in turning and aerial adjustment that is simply impossible to replicate with the eight directions offered by WASD keys. This is why virtually every single professional Rocket League player—over 99% of them—uses a controller.

While you can certainly reach a high rank on KBM, you are arguably putting yourself at a slight disadvantage in the fine-control department. If you’re serious about competitive play, learning to use a controller is the recommended path.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the best controller settings for Rocket League?

The best settings are personal, but a fantastic starting point is: Steering/Aerial Sensitivity around 1.40, Controller Deadzone at 0.05, Dodge Deadzone at 0.70, and Vibration off. Most importantly, rebind Boost to R1/RB and Powerslide/Air Roll to L1/LB to unlock your mechanical potential.

What settings do pros use in Rocket League?

Pros use a wide variety of settings, but almost all of them share key principles. They use high sensitivities (1.30-2.00), low controller deadzones (0.05-0.10), and custom button bindings with boost and air roll on the bumpers. They also universally turn off camera shake and vibration for a cleaner, more consistent experience.

What sensitivity do RL pros use?

Most Rocket League pros use a sensitivity between 1.30 and 2.00 for both steering and aerials. This range provides a significant speed boost over the default 1.0 setting, allowing for faster aerials and quicker turns. A good middle ground to start with is 1.40 and adjust from there based on personal comfort.

Do RL pros use controllers?

Yes, overwhelmingly so. Over 99% of professional Rocket League players use a controller. The analog sticks provide superior 360-degree control for steering and aerial adjustments, which is considered essential for playing at the highest level. The PlayStation DualShock 4 and DualSense are among the most popular choices.

How to get better aim in Rocket League?

Improving aim (or accuracy) comes from a combination of optimized settings and practice. Lowering your controller deadzone to around 0.05 makes small adjustments more responsive. Finding a comfortable sensitivity you can control is also key. Most importantly, spend time in custom training packs specifically designed for shooting accuracy to build muscle memory.

What settings does Zen use?

As of late 2025, the prodigy Zen is known to use a PlayStation 5 DualSense controller with fairly high sensitivity, typically around 1.70 for both steering and aerial. His deadzone is very low, around 0.05, and he uses a custom button layout with Air Roll Left and Right bound to the face buttons. Keep in mind that his settings change, and what works for him may not work for you.

Should I use ball cam in Rocket League?

Yes, you should be in Ball Cam for about 90-95% of the game. It’s essential for maintaining awareness of the play and positioning yourself correctly relative to the ball. You should only switch to Car Cam briefly to line up for a boost pad, check an opponent’s position for a demolition, or when dribbling the ball on top of your car.

Final Thoughts: Your Path to Mechanical Mastery

You now have the blueprint for a complete controller overhaul. We’ve deconstructed every setting, from the game-changing button binds to the nuanced deadzone sliders. You understand the why behind the pro-level configurations and have a clear, actionable plan to discover your own perfect setup. This is your ticket to breaking through plateaus and unlocking a new level of mechanical skill.

Remember that this is a process. Be patient with yourself, especially when learning new button layouts. The initial discomfort is temporary, but the skill ceiling you unlock is permanent. Get into Free Play, start experimenting, and commit to your new setup.

The fluid, precise, and dominant player you want to be is just a few settings away.